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Dress code

What the collar is for, and what a dress code actually asks

The collar is the whole difference between a shirt you can tee off in and one the starter will mention. A short field guide.

Why the collar survives

Nearly every club that has a dress code writes the same first line: a collared shirt. The collar is doing no athletic work at all. It is a signal, and signals are cheap to send: wear the collar and the conversation never happens.

The classic point collar

The fold-down collar with a two or three button placket is legal everywhere golf is played. What matters is that it keeps its spine: a collar that curls after ten washes reads sloppier than no collar at all, which is why ours are knitted with a firmer edge than the body.

Mock necks and zip collars

The mock neck is accepted at most courses now, though not all, and it layers under a quarter-zip better than a point collar does. If your club is traditional, ask once and know forever. The quarter-zip itself is outerwear: legal over a polo, pushing it worn over bare skin.

The rest of the code, briefly

Shirts tucked where the cut expects it, shorts of a tailored length, nothing that was clearly sold as gym wear. The point of every line of it is the same: nobody should be able to tell from fifty yards whether you are having a good day.

Written in the studio. If something here contradicts what a piece actually does when it arrives, flag us down and we will fix the note.

From the rack

Pieces this note is about

Chosen by what the catalogue actually holds today, sorted by how many people have rated them.